Bodysurfing – that’s something I’m really fascinated with. Some of the best waves I’ve had have been through bodysurfing. I love being inside the water, feeling how it moves differently underwater from the sense of riding a wave on its surface. It’s pretty hard to beat a good ride from bodysurfing.
I can’t let surfing dominate me because then it will cause problems with my family.
I knew I was going to have something to do with surfing.
I try to read literature that gives some enrichment. It’s a way of catching up on things I missed out on.
Imagine if you were asked to explain what surfing was to someone from another planet. The first thing you’d try and describe is the sound. The sound of the ocean is incredible. That’s just one of hundreds of similarities between music and surfing. Surfing a wave is comparable to a drummer whose playing is really fast and technical and in time; when that drummer loses the tempo, it’s the same as a surfer losing the wave or having to recover awkwardly. You need to be in the pocket, both in music and in surfing; if you’re not, the whole thing falls apart.
My first board was a board I got for $10 in the Haleiwa parking lot.
One thing about surfing that intrigues me is riding inside the tube.
One way to realize the power of the ocean is by getting wiped-out.
Surfing can be a religious experience.
Surfing is a special kind of madness, a feeling for the sea, a combination of love, knowledge, respect, fear- instinctive perception gained through repeated contact.
Surfing is the most blissful experience you can have on this planet, a taste of heaven.
Surfing is very important to me, but my family is more important.
The power aspect was what really brought me to start surfing. What I’m really interested is to control that power.
There’s like a mental block with the idea of coming up with better materials.
When you surf big waves you learn to trust in God. It’s a situation where you’re fearful, where you’re aware that life is short, but where you’re reminded that only God knows how long you’ve got. You experience fear and faith at the same time.
You can’t really do well in the contests riding something that you’re just into riding because it’s fun. You have to ride basically what everybody else is riding.
