Exercise and training is not a main priority for me.
I eat lots of protein and complex carbs but I’ve still got a big sweet tooth – nothing beats chocolate!
I like to surf before the event starts to shake the nerves.
I love all kinds of music and it depends on what the waves are like, but maybe some Jay Z/Kanye, Radiohead, Bjork, Tame Impala or Jimi Hendrix.
I think in the near future there will be an abundance of quality images of the girls making it to the male magazines.
I wish all hotels included a tiny toothpaste with the bathroom kit, or a spare at reception that you could politely borrow.
I’m trying to grow my profile a bit outside of surfing and bring more of my personality into the mix.
I’ve learned a lot about how to treat my body and how to value it. I got to a point where I didn’t stress about my insecurities.
My favourite spots are always the ones where I have won!
My plans change everyday, and they usually don’t go much further than a month into the future.
Never underestimate yourself, trust yourself and your intuition, and enjoy the journey.
The ocean is where I’ve spent my whole life. It is my passion and my office. As sad as I am, I can only hope it will lead us to improve the way we use energy in the future.
There’s a delicacy to our oceans. They’re precious, all connected and continuously joined across the globe. No matter where you’re from, these bodies of water connect us. Surfers understand this.
When the pressure is on, you rise to another level.
When you’re up and riding, it’s mostly instinct and feeling. It’s a mix of present thought, natural movement, and what is already embedded in your subconscious.
